Author: rubberslothbird

  • The Ghost of Mordecai House

    Mordecai House is one of Raleigh’s finest historic buildings. The original portion of the house dates from around 1785 and was built by Joel Lane for his son, Henry. Joel Lane was one of the instrumental figures in the establishment of Raleigh as the first planned state capitol in the US. The Capitol building and a substantial portion of downtown Raleigh all stand on what was once Lane’s Wakefield Plantation.

    Why Raleigh was built where it was, instead of closer to the Neusse River and its access to transportation and the sea, has always been something of a historical puzzle. There’s a legend that Lane was the one behind the location. The story goes that Lane persuaded the Capitol planning committee to purchase a large chunk of his unwanted land during a night of very heavy drinking at a local tavern, with Lane picking up the tab.

    Mordecai House acquired its name when Moses Mordecai married into the Lane family in 1817. Mordecai not only married into the Lane family, he married in to the family twice. When his first wife, Margaret Lane, died in 1824, he married her younger sister, Ann.

    A 1971 Engraving of the Mordecai House by Vogt. From the author's collection.
    A 1971 Engraving of the Mordecai House by Vogt. From the author’s collection.

    Moses Mordecai was a member of one of the most prominent and fascinating Ashkenazi Jewish Families in early American history. His father, Jacob Mordecai, was a progressive, intelligent leader who was the first director of the Female Seminary in Warrenton, North Carolina. This seminary provided an unusual multi-faith teaching environment for young ladies of the town. Moses Mordecai’s older sister, Rachel Mordecai Lazarus, was an extremely intellectually gifted woman whose correspondence with the best-selling novelist Maria Edgeworth persuaded the author to amend the anti-semitic prejudice that unfortunately permeated much of her early work. Rachel Mordecai Lazarus was an early feminist and an early voice in the call for what would become the Reform Movement in American Judaism.

    The Mordecai family’s story is a complex one of change and assimilation that many Jews faced when moving to America. While in this country they were ostensibly free to practice their faith and live as they chose, there was still constant pressure to lose their distinct identity in order to become “fully American”. Moses Mordecai apparently deferred to the wishes of his Episcopalian wives, as his branch of the family were thereafter Christian, and by the time Moses Mordecai’s granddaughter Elen Mordecai wrote her memoir Gleanings of Long Ago, the family’s Jewish origins were only a vague memory. But Moses’ son Henry did play an important role in Raleigh’s Jewish history, donating a portion of the Mordecai lands to found the first Jewish cemetery in Raleigh.

    The Mordecai House Dining Room With 19th Century Place Settings
    The Mordecai House Dining Room With 19th Century Place Settings

    It was also sometime in Moses Mordecai’s lifetime that the pronunciation of the family name Mordecai shifted from the traditional long I ending to a long E. This unique pronunciation is still used for the name of the house to this day.

    The descendants of Moses Mordecai inhabited the house for five more generations, until the house was willed to the city in 1964, and it’s now part of a public park.

    Mordecai House in 2024
    Mordecai House in 2024
    Mordecai House as it appeared in 2024

    The ghost that inhabits the house is said to be the spirit of Mary Willis Mordecai Turk, who lived from 1858 to 1937. She appears sporadically as an apparition in a grey Nineteenth Century dress. She can occasionally be heard playing the piano in the downstairs drawing room, and visitors to the house have occasionally seen a grey mist hovering near that piano.

    Mordecai House was featured on an episode of the Sci-Fi Channel’s Ghost Hunters, where the band of supernatural investigators and sometime plumbers displayed their usual degree of scientific and intellectual rigor by completely confusing the house with the birthplace of President Andrew Johnson, also located in the park, and then all coming down with food poisoning.

  • Mermaid Point

    Chatham County sits in the heart of the North Carolina piedmont, over a hundred miles from the ocean. It’s not the first place you’d go to expecting to see mermaids. But according to one old North Carolina legend, Chatham County was just the place to see them.

    Mermaid Point is the name of the spot in southeastern Chatham County where the Deep and Haw rivers meet to form the Cape Fear River. From Mermaid Point, the Cape Fear flows through eastern North Carolina down to around Wilmington, where it broadens and finally joins the sea near Bald Head Island, at the place from which the river derives its name, Cape Fear itself. The name is said to come from the 16th century explorers Sir Richard Grenville and John White, both of whom nearly wrecked their ships when navigating the cape.

    The Cape Fear River was one of the early economic drivers of North Carolina. It provided transportation from piedmont down to the port of Wilmington, although going all the way down the river required passing through a series of dangerous falls and rapids. The river was once teeming with Atlantic Sturgeon, a strange-looking, ancient species of fish that spends most of its life in the oceans but, like the salmon, travels up into fresh water to spawn. The sturgeon’s eggs are highly prized as caviar, and because of this it was hunted to near extinction in the 19th Century. With all of this potential for money to be made, the banks of the Cape Fear became a draw for settlers.

    In 1740, four Scotsmen from Argyllshire, Duncan Campell, James McLachlan, and the brothers Hector and Neill McNeill purchased several large tracts of land in the area where the Haw and Deep rivers merged into the Cape Fear to form a town named Lockville. The fledging settlement they planted was soon joined by a man by the name of Ambrose Ramsey, who calculated that if there’s money to be made, that means there’s money to be spent, and he was pretty sure he knew one of the best ways for this to happen. And so he opened a tavern.

    Ramsey’s Tavern sat right by the banks of the Deep River, a short distance upstream of where it joined with the Haw. When people left the tavern at the end of the night, this confluence was on the path home, and in the middle of this broad channel was a long, white, sandbar. And it was on this channel that people said they saw the mermaids.

    The last remains of Ramsey's Tavern. Photo from the North Carolina State Library
    The last remains of Ramsey’s Tavern. Photo from the North Carolina State Library

    They said that the mermaids would sit on the sandbar at night, combing their long hair in the moonlight. People walking home from the tavern would see them laughing, singing, and playing and splashing in the water. They would dive below the surface if anyone should call out to them or try to approach.

    Mermaids are thought to be creatures of the sea. So why were they hear, so far inland? The explanation came forth that everyone knew mermaids were vain creatures. They swam up from the coast to wash the salt from their hair, so it would be more shiny and beautiful.

    It’s from this gathering that the area came to be known as Mermaid Point. Of course, it may mean something that people always seemed to see the mermaids on their way home form the tavern, and never on the way too the tavern.

    The town of Lockville failed to thrive, and eventually what business there was was taken up by the nearby towns of Moncure and Haywood. Ambrose Ramsey’s tavern stood until the late 19th century, when it was destroyed in a flood. This was about the same time that the sightings of the mermaids stopped. It’s noted that the disappearance of the mermaids seemed to coincide with the building of the first of a series of dams and locks along the course of the Cape Fear, perhaps cutting off the path of the mermaids up from the sea.

    As for that mermaid-drawing sandbar, sadly, it’s no longer visible. The construction of Buckhorn Dam raised the water levels in the area and the sandbar sank beneath the surface.

  • Lydia, The Phantom Hitchhiker

    Vanishing hitchhikers are a staple of American folklore. Seemingly every state in the Union has some variant on the story of a young woman who died in a car crash and is still trying to make her way back home. In his book The Vanishing Hitchhiker, Professor Jan Harold Brunvand records multiple variants of the story, and notes that there were at least eleven different versions of the story circulating in North Carolina in the Sixties.

    These Phantom Hitchhiker stories have a long history, seeming to date from even before the invention of the automobile. There are recorded versions with ghosts hopping on buggies or horses. Sometimes the mysterious passenger isn’t a young lady in distress at all, but a religious figure — a Catholic saint, a Mormon wandering Nephite, or even Jesus. There are recorded Yiddish versions of the story from Europe, where the hitchhiker is the Prophet Elijah. While the details vary from story to story and culture to culture, the theme of someone stopping to help a mysterious figure who then disappears before reaching their destination remains the same.

    The stretch of road in Jamestown where Lydia is supposedly seen
    The stretch of road in Jamestown where Lydia is supposedly seen

    More About This Story

    North Carolina’s Lydia is just one of many such stories from across the world, and even just one of many such stories from across North Carolina.

    Of the multiple versions of the story circulating in North Carolina, the girl’s white dress, her sitting in the back seat, and the fact that it’s raining are the details that seem to turn up in every retelling. It’s only relatively recently, when the influence of the internet began to give our oral culture a more static format, that the variant where the girl is named Lydia and specifically identified with the overgrown bridge has become the most often told one.

    A view from inside the overgrown underpass called Lydia's Bridge
    A view from inside the overgrown underpass called Lydia’s Bridge

    In the 1960s, versions of the story usually included that the girl’s name was “Mary.” And while there were many variations throughout the state, most placed the encounter somewhere along the stretch of US-70 known as the Old Football Road running between Chapel Hill and Greensboro. But the bonus of having a specific, and genuinely creepy, destination associated with the story seems to have fixed our homegrown hitchhiker halfway to High Point and perpetually flagging down passing motorists from Lydia’s Bridge. The fact that Lydia’s Bridge is not actually a bridge, but a culvert to carry the railroad tracks over a now-dry stream bed is seldom mentioned.

    So what does the story of the phantom hitchhiker mean? Why do we keep telling it time and time again? It’s probably worth noting that, while there are certainly older versions, the story began spreading like wildfire after the invention of the automobile. There was a time when cars were few on the road that the death of a young woman in an automobile accident would have been a relative rarity. There may be some folk memories of some fatal accident long ago which shook an entire town, and that those memories are kept alive in the phantom hitchhiker stories. There also may be something in the way the story captures the excitement of a teenager’s first few years driving, where making the journey from Raleigh to Greensboro alone at night can seem like an adventure and where anything is possible — even picking up a hitchhiker who died nearly a century ago.

    And if you happen to see someone in a white dress standing by that overpass in High Point, there’s a good chance that teenagers seeking excitement has a lot to do with that as well.

  • The Bath Curse

    Bath town sits on the mouth of the Pamlico River. In the Eighteenth Century, Bath was an important port for the Carolina colonies. Ships traveling across the Atlantic Community would stop there, selling, resupplying, and trading. And not all of this traffic was legitimate. Bath was a favored haunt of pirates. The pirates appreciated Bath Town’s habit of not asking too many questions about where a cargo came from. It was also very conveniently located with easy access to both the open sea and the mazes of inlets and hidden coves that shape the North Carolina coastline. This gave those with reason to hide many routes to quietly sail off into when the British Navy showed up. The most famous of North Carolina’s pirates, Blackbeard himself, is said to have had a house and a wife or two in the town.

    With all of this money pouring into the town, Bath soon developed a reputation as a freewheeling, easygoing kind of place. Liquor flowed freely, parties lasted all night long, and there was a good time easily had by anyone who wanted it.

    But, as is the way with these things, inevitably someone shows up who not only doesn’t want a good time, but who doesn’t want anyone else to have one, either.

    A contemporary engraving of George Whitefield preaching in all of his glory and what there is of his humility.

    The traveling evangelist George Whitefield was one of the first celebrities in the American colonies. This staunch, cross-eyed, strictly Calvinist evangelist was reputed to have a voice that would carry for five miles. He used that voice to preach a grim vision of hellfire and damnation all up and down the American Colonies.

    Whitefield was one of the prime movers of the wave of religious fervor that swept the American Colonies just before the Revolution. His sermons and the passion they inspired came to be known as “The Great Awakening,” and those who were generally concerned with just getting on and enjoying life instead of worrying so much about hellfire and damnation were a particular target of his.

    Like many of these preachers to this day, Whitefield was also a showman. One of Whitefield’s pieces of evangelical stagecraft was to always travel in a wagon in which he carried his own coffin. Whitefield used the coffin to illustrate that he was prepared for death and confident in his own salvation. To drive the point even further home, Whitefield always slept in that coffin.

    When he heard about the fun going on in Bath, of course it made his list. Needless to say, a strange, cross-eyed preacher who slept in a coffin and shouted about eternal damnation was not a welcome presence in a town that had come to accept the idea that doing what you wanted, when you wanted, was actually a pretty good way to go through life.

    St. Thomas' Episcopal Church in Bath. Consturction began in 1734 and the church was consecrated sometime around 1740. One of the oldest surviving church buildings in North Carolina.
    St. Thomas’ Episcopal Church in Bath. Consturction began in 1734 and the church was consecrated sometime around 1740. One of the oldest surviving church buildings in North Carolina.

    When Whitefield visited Bath, he was met by a delegation of locals who suggested that he might just want to turn around and head back the way he came. They may even have suggested that should he choose to stick around, he’d have an opportunity to put that coffin he was so fond of dragging around with him to its proper use.

    Whitefield took the hint. But he couldn’t leave without at least making some kind of show. Whitefield climbed back on his wagon, took off his shoe and waved it at the assembled crowd, and proceeded to place a curse on the town.

    “If a place won’t listen to The Word,” Whitefield said, “You shake the dust of the town off your feet, and the town shall be cursed. I have put a curse on this town for a hundred years.”

    Shortly thereafter, the nearby town of Washington and its larger and more easily accessible port began to suck away Bath’s prosperity. The money stopped rolling in and the good times came to an end with them. By the middle of the Nineteenth Century, Bath had dwindled to a small, sleepy backwater, the same quiet little hamlet that’s there today. Whitefield took this as evidence that his curse had had an effect, and smugly spread the story of how he had brought down the town.

  • The Grey Man of Hatteras

    Hurricanes are a fact of life on the Carolina Coast. Every few years, one of these tremendous storms is going to blow in from the Atlantic and flood the coast, doing tremendous damage. These storms always move on, but while the hurricane is blowing it’s certain that homes will be lost, and terribly likely that people will die.

    No point in the state is more vulnerable to hurricanes than Cape Hatteras. Hatteras Island sits right on the edge of the Gulf Stream, the massive current of warm water that circles through the Atlantic. This current is powerful enough to have shaped the island itself into the distinctive point that Cape Hatteras sits at the edge of. The Gulf Stream is also a path that hurricanes coming in from the Atlantic often follow, drawing their energy from the warm waters flowing beneath them. With the Gulf Stream pointed right at Cape Hatteras, there’s a good chance that any hurricane blowing in will hit the island.

    But there’s something on Hatteras that lets the islanders know when a storm is coming.

    The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse as it appeared in the late 19th Century.
    The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse as it appeared in the late 19th Century.

    The Grey Man of Hatteras is an indistinct, shadowy figure who walks the beaches of Cape Hatteras as a hurricane is approaching. He appears as the first winds of the storm touch the island whenever a hurricane is a threat to the island and it’s inhabitants.

    He never speaks, or at least no one has ever heard him speak. No one has ever gotten close enough. If anyone approaches the Grey Man, his form slowly fades into the salty air, completely vanishing before the curious onlooker can reach where he was standing.

    But his presence alone is enough to warn the islanders. If he’s seen on a beach, it’s a sure way to know that the oncoming storm will be a bad one. He’s a warning that nature is still something to be taken seriously.

    Who is the Grey Man? Some people say that he’s the ghost of a sailor from the island who died at sea in a hurricane. They say that he comes back to warn his fellow islanders of the danger, because his soul was so terrorized by his windy, watery end that he can’t bear to go on from this world while he can still prevent others from sharing his fate.

    Some others will tell you that he never was a man, that he’s just a force of nature. That he’s not so much a ghost as a spirit, an expression of the force pushing the wind and waves towards the vulnerable island.

    Even in today’s world, where we can watch the storms form from space and fly airplanes into the storm to measure the winds, we still give each hurricane a name when it’s born. We may name them because some part of still thinks that anything so powerful and so willful must be alive. Maybe the Grey Man is just the hurricane itself talking to us, the voice of that living force born out of the deep ocean.

    Whoever he was, whatever he is, the Grey Man of Hatteras still walks the beaches under the shadow of the tallest lighthouse whenever a hurricane is heading towards the island. Even as Cape Hatteras has gone from being a lonely little island to a crowded tourist beach, the Grey Man still warns us of the coming storm.

    So if you’re ever on Hatteras and you turn in the TV and they’re talking about a storm, stroll down to the cloud-covered beach and look out towards the waves as the first few drops of rain begin to fall. Look for a shadowy figure, prowling the beach where the high waves hit the sand.

    And if you see him, pack up and get off the island as quick as you can. This storm is going to be a big one.

  • The Ghost Lights of Dymond City

    Dymond City is no more. This once-thriving but briefly-lived North Carolina community stood near Jamesville from 1868 until it faded away in the 1930s.

    The town’s beginning was the formation of the Jamesville and Washington Railroad and Lumber Company. The company began buying substantial tracts of land in Martin County in 1868 with the goals of extracting the large stands of virgin timber in the area, and of building a railroad to make it easier to ship the timber out and move passengers around Eastern North Carolina.

    The railroad was completed around 1877 and was soon carrying travelers between Jamesville and Washington and named the J&W line. Because of the notoriously rough condition of the tracks, the J&W in the J&W line quickly came to be said to stand for “Jolt and Wiggle.”

    Dymond City was the town that sprung up with the railroad. Dymond City was very much a company town. The houses were owned by company, the workers paid their rent to the company, and did all of their shopping at the company store. By 1885, the town had a hotel, a school, and houses for the workers and families. Why it was named Dymond City isn’t known, but local legend has it that the city was named after the Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnakes that were then still common in the woods. Given that there have been well-documented cases of rattlesnakes caught in the area that exceeded seven feet in length, it’s certainly a memorable enough thing to name a town after. The spelling of Dymond instead of Diamond may simply have been because there was already another Diamond City in North Carolina, this one along the Shackleford Banks, which has also faded away. Perhaps it’s just an ill-fated name.

    The town thrived for nearly a quarter of a century, but by the 1920s the shine had worn off of the diamond. Most of the old-growth timber had been extracted, and other, less bumpy, railroad lines had been built through the area, drawing away passengers. The town’s population slowly began moving away, to the extent that by the 1920s the town’s post office had been closed. The final blow came in April 1927, when a fire swept through the town, destroying the hotel, the school, and the remaining homes.

    Dymond City came to an end. The Jamesville and Washington Railroad and Lumber company ceased operations, selling off the the land. the railroad tracks were torn up, and the company town was slowly reclaimed by the forest.

    But some say that more remains of the town than just its memory.

    As the town disappeared and the woods around it once agin grew thick, travelers along the old road that led past the city began to report seeing strange things happening in the woods. They said that on certain nights mysterious lights could be seen dancing and rolling through the forest.

    There were those who said the lights resembled the light of a lantern bobbing up and down along the path of the old railroad. Others said they had seen something like a fireball rolling along the tops of the trees in the area. The lights all seemed to move with intent and purpose, and often seemed to be beckoning people to follow them.

    Some said that the lights were the ghost of one of the old railroad men, perhaps a watchman or signalman who still clung to his duty, even though the company he had worked for was long gone. Others say that it was the memory of the town itself, the spirit of the place surprised that its life had been cut short, and that it was pleading for people to come back and settle the land again. Whatever the cause, people soon agree that something mysterious was happening in the woods which had once been a town.

    The ghost lights of Dymond City are still seen to this day. The lights are said to be anywhere from blue to orange in color, and will often appear floating ten to fifteen feet off the ground. They’re most often seen on clear nights.

  • The Boo Hag

    One there were two men who had been friends all their lives. They married two beautiful women about the same time and everything seemed fine. But one day, one of the men came to his friend and asked him “When you wake up a night, is your wife in bed with you?”

    “She sure is,” said his friend, “Why do you ask?”

    “When I lie down in bed at night, my wife is with me. But when I wake up in the middle of the night, she’s gone. But then come morning she’s back in bed.”

    “Man,” said the friend, “I think you married a boo hag!”

    Now they knew this was serious. A boo hag is a kind of witch that can slip out of her skin and fly around at night and cause all kinds of trouble in the world. A boo hag can kill a man just by sucking all the blood from his body out through his nose. They’ll get on a man and ride him at night so he can’t move and he can’t breathe. A boo hag is not something you’d ever want to meet, and sure not something you’d ever want to be married to. So the man asked his friend what he should do.

    “You got to wait until she slips out of her skin in the middle of the night, and then you find that skin. Look under the stairs. That’s where boo hags like to hide their skins. You take that skin and you pour salt and pepper all over it. Then she won’t be able to get her skin back on.”

    And so that night the man went to bed with his wife and pretended to sleep. About midnight, he felt her slip out of bed beside him. He waited for her to get downstairs and then got out of bed and then quietly hid where he could see her. He saw his wife pull off all of her skin and roll it up into a ball and hide it under the stairs. Then she flew right up the chimney, going out to cause trouble in the world.

    Well, that man didn’t waste any time. He went and got that skin and salted it and peppered it real good, then rolled it back up into a ball and hid it put it back under the stairs where he found it. Then he went back to bed and waited until early in the morning when he heard a noise of something coming down the chimney and he heard his wife’s voice speaking softly.

    Skin, skin, you know me?

    Skin, skin, this is me.

    Skin, skin, you know me?

    Skin, skin, this is me.

    But he knew that with all that salt and pepper she couldn’t get back into her skin. He waited and heard his wife speak again.

    Skin, skin, you know me?

    Skin, skin, this is me.

    Skin, skin, you know me?

    Skin, skin, this is me.

    And he knew that she was stuck without her skin. He heard her coming up the stairs and pretended to be asleep. He felt his wife crawl into bed with him and wrap herself up tight in the sheet. But he reached his hand over and could feel something warm and raw and rubbery in the bed next to him. After that, he didn’t need to pretend not to sleep.

    When the morning broke, the man got up and said to his wife “Time to get up. Time for breakfast,” but she said “I ain’t getting up. I’m sick,” and lay there wrapped up tight in that sheet, not showing one inch of herself.

    The man said he’d go get the doctor, but she said the doctor cost too much money. So the man said he was going to go hoe the garden.

    The man went outside and hid under the window. Sure enough, he heard his wife come down the stairs and call out again.

    Skin, skin, you know me?

    Skin, skin, this is me.

    Skin, skin, you know me?

    Skin, skin, this is me.

    That was enough for the man. He went down to fetch the conjure man who would know what to do. He told the conjure man his story and the conjure man told him to go home and start a big barrel of pitch boiling and he’d be by shortly.

    So the man went home and built a fire in the garden and started a big barrel of pitch boiling on it. Soon, the conjure man walked up the road and the two of them went inside and went upstairs to where the woman was back in bed, all wrapped up tight in her sheet again. The conjure man said “what ails you, woman?” and she said there was nothing wrong. But the conjure man wasn’t having none of that. He ripped the sheet right off of her and there she was, lying there all raw and bloody.

    “Man, you done married a hag!” said the conjure man, and they grabbed her and carried her out to the garden where they threw her in that big barrel of boiling pitch and burned that hag alive.

    What else could they do?

    More About This Story

    Boo hags are part of the African-American tradition from the coasts of North and South Carolina. According to tradition, one of the best ways to keep a hag out of your house is to lay a broom across the front of your door. A boo hag can slip into a house through the keyhole, but if she sees a broom she has to stop and count every straw on that broom. By the time she’s done the dawn will have come and she has to return to her skin.

    A conjure man, sometimes called a conjure doctor or a root worker, is someone experienced in the art of hoodoo, the African-American magical and spiritual tradition. Conjure men can help not only with dealing with hags and other supernatural entities, but a good conjure man is knowledgable in spells to help with such mundane matters as finding love, a good job, or winning in a court case. Hoodoo is a living tradition and there are root workers practicing in North Carolina to this day.

  • The Mysteries of the Great Dismal Swamp

    The Great Dismal Swamp stretches across Northeastern North Carolina up into Southern Virginia. The swamp is one of the largest natural areas in the Eastern United States, with over 100,000 acres protected by state and federal preserves. But despite its appearance as an untouched, primordial landscape, the swamp has a long and complex history of human settlement and exploitation. The swamp was home to Native American bands for over 13,000 years. And when Europeans arrived in the area, the swamp almost immediately became an object of fascination.

    None other than George Washington was one of the earliest men dedicated to transforming the swamp into something other than a swamp. Washington was a major investor in the Great Dismal Swamp Company, a company that attempted to colonize the swamp by draining it and transforming it into farmland. When that proved impossible, the company turned to harvesting timber from the swamp. This industry eventually led to the creation of the Great Dismal Swamp Canal to transporting the logs from the deep forests, and the canal remains the oldest man-made waterway in America still in use.

    Prior to emancipation, the Great Dismal Swamp served as home to a small number of Maroon communities. Maroons were enslaved people who freed themselves and fled into the wilderness to avoid recapture. These communities began springing up almost as soon as the slaves were brought into the colonies, and the importance of the Dismal Swamp as a place to escape to was widely understood. The abolitionist Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of Uncle Tom’s Cabin, in her second anti-slavery novel Dred: A Tale of the Great Dismal Swamp. Today the presence of these communities is commemorated in the recently-added Underground Railroad pavilion located on a trail near the Great Dismal Swamp National Park headquarters in Suffolk, Virginia.

    The swamp is stunningly beautiful, but also wildly dangerous. It’s easy to get lost in the mazes of islands and waterways. There are dangerous animals in the swamp, but also dangerous geography. The waters can be deceptively deep and impossible to climb out of, and over the years many lives have been lost beneath its waters. So with this long, complex, and dangerous history, it’s not surprising that there are more than a few stories that have attached themselves to the swamp over the years.

    There seems to be an air of mystery throughout the whole swamp. Mysterious lights are often seen floating through the woods and over the waters at night. Hunters have passed down stories of shooting a bear or a deer, only to find that the body has vanished and left no trace, not even a drop of blood, when they go to retrieve it. There are multiple stories of people encountering phantom figures in the woods of the swamp, people dressed in everything from colonial-era clothing to that of early 20th century lumberman.

    Perhaps that spirits of the swamp are even reaching out to help others from joining their ranks. There’s one legend from the swamp which speaks of a mysterious, traveling graveyard which can’t be found when you’re looking for it, and will only appear to warn someone that they’ve lost their way.

    The most famous legend from the Great Dismal Swamp comes from slightly north of the border in Virginia, where Lake Drummond stretches for five miles through the swamp. This is the the story of a pair of American Indian lovers who were pledged to be married, but the bride-to-be died on the morning of the wedding day. The girl was buried in the depths of the Dismal Swamp. Driven mad by grief, her young lover became convinced that he could still see her paddling a white canoe across the surface of the lake. He made a makeshift raft and followed the vision out onto the lake, but drowned in the attempt to reach her. Ever since then, the vision of the two lovers paddling together in a white canoe can sometimes be seen on Lake Drummond.

    Sweet Music for Thomas Moore's The Ballad of the Great Dismal Swamp
    Sweet Music for Thomas Moore’s The Ballad of the Great Dismal Swamp

    This story was the inspiration for the Irish poet Thomas Moore’s A Ballad – The Lake of Dismal Swamp, where he sums up the whole situation thus:

    They made her a grave, too cold and damp

    For a soul so warm and true;

    And she’s gone to the Lake of the Dismal Swamp,

    Where, all night long, by a fire-fly lamp,

    She paddles her white canoe.

    Moore’s sentimental Ballad was wildly popular at the time, and actually spurned a small tourism boom for the Great Dismal Swamp.

    Recently, the ballad took on a somewhat odd second life. The illustrator and writer Edward Gorey, wel-known for his slightly macabre illustrations, was also a playwright and a great lover of the opera. Upon his death in 2000, an libretto for an opera based on Moore’s poem and written to be performed by hand puppets was found among his papers. The White Canoe: An Opera Seria for Hand Puppets was Gorey’s final theatrical work, music was written for it by Daniel J Wolf and a production staged at the Cotuit Center for the Arts in Massachussets five months after Gorey’s death.

    Gorey and Wolf weren’t the first to give a musical voice to the swamp, either, in 1933 composer William Grant Still wrote a tone poem titled Dismal Swamp, inspired by the long history of African-Americans with the swamp. So it appears that the Great Dismal Swamp is still inspiring people, and that there are more stories about the swamp to be told, and even more ways to tell them.

  • Blackbeard’s Ghost

    On Ocracoke Island is a small channel of water known as Teach’s Hole. This inlet is reported to be the spot where the pirate Edward Teach, better known as Blackbeard, preferred to anchor his ship. It’s also said to be where he met his end, and some say his ghost haunts the spot to this day.

    Blackbeard roamed the Atlantic from around 1716 until 1718, robbing ships from the West Indies to the Carolinas. He had a reputation for unbridled ferocity. When Blackbeard went into battle, he strapped multiple pistols and multiple cutlasses to his body. Most frightening of all, he wove fuses into his long, black beard and set them on fire just before he stepped on to the captured ship. This towering figure, armed to the teeth, sporting a sparking, flaming beard must have been absolutely terrifying. Ships’ captains would surrender without a shot being fired.

    Blackbeard’s reign on the high seas came to an end on November 22, 1718. Virginia Governor Alexander Spotswood sent a ship commanded by John Maynard down to the North Carolina coast to track down and kill Blackbeard. Maynard surprised Blackbeard and a skeleton crew anchored at Teach’s Hole. In the ferocious battle that followed, Blackbeard was shot five times and stabbed no less than twenty. The pirate crew was all killed or captured.

    Blackbeard’s head was chopped off and hung from the bowsprit of Maynard’s ship. The pirate’s headless body was thrown overboard. Legend has it that the headless body swam around Maynard’s ship three times before sinking below the waters.

    Ever since then, it’s been said that Blackbeard’s ghost haunts the spot known as Teach’s Hole. Many people have reported seeing a strange light moving beneath the water in the cove. This ghostly light is thought by some to be Blackbeard’s spirit, swimming through the waters, searching for his missing head.

    A vintage postcard of The Old Brick House in Elizabeth city. One of the oldest surviving brick residences in North Carolina. Legend has it that the house was built by Edward Teach, although records suggest it wasn't constructed until several decades after his death.
    A vintage postcard of The Old Brick House in Elizabeth city. One of the oldest surviving brick residences in North Carolina. Legend has it that the house was built by Edward Teach, although records suggest it wasn’t constructed until several decades after his death. From the author’s collection.

    There are those who believe that on stormy nights you can hear Blackbeard’s voice calling out in the wind. On nights when the angry wind is roaring and the hard rain coming down, many people have heard a horrible roaring coming from this hidden cove. They say that it’s a unearthly noise that sounds like a pained human voice bellowing “Where’s my head?”

    While his reign as terror of the seas was short, Blackbeard’s legacy lives on in the legends of North Carolina. We’re also learning even more about this frightening pirate every day, ever since the discovery of the wreck of The Queen Anne’s Revenge. Archaeologists and historians have been working on recovering and restoring artifacts from this sunken ship captained by the notorious pirate, and we’re discovering fascinating details of what life was like on an 18th Century pirate ship.

    While Blackbeard’s viciousness has gone down in history, these stories may be a fact of history being written by the winners. Except for the final battle, there’s no record of Blackbeard ever having killed anyone. The show with the massive arsenal and flaming beard may have been deliberately designed to avoid a fight. Blackbeard seems to have understood that having a reputation for being a bloodthirsty murdered could save you the trouble of actually being a bloodthirsty murderer.

    And while pirates are considered that bad guys of history, it’s hard not to sympathize with the pirates over the British Navy. Pirate crews were better treated and better paid that Navy crews. Furthermore, pirate crews were on their ships by choice, as opposed to the Navy crews, many of whose members would have been pressed into service.

    Pirate ships were also essentially democratic institutions. The pirate captain would be elected by the crew, and generally selected on the basis of competence and fairness as a leader. The captain’s decisions on where and when to sail would be put to a vote, and his authority became absolute only during battle. This was a stark contrast to the British Navy at the time, where the captaincy of a ship was based more on being born to the right family than on any ability to competently lead a crew.

    It’s also important to remember what the pirates were stealing and from whom. A large portion of the vessels passing through the Atlantic at this time were holding enslaved human beings as cargo. When intercepting a slave ship, pirate crews would routinely free those otherwise destined for a life of unimaginable misery. These men would be offered the opportunity to join the ship’s crew. With chances of their being able to return home being tragically small, it’s an offer many of them took up. Records show that as much of half of any given pirate ship’s crew in the early Eighteenth Century would have been composed of freed Africans. Even Blackbeard’s trusted second-in-command who died fighting with him at Teach’s Hole was one of these men, known to us only as Black Caesar.

    While many pirates did kill and plunder, they were killing and plundering from people who were themselves killing, plundering, enslaving, and exploiting lands which had been invaded and were held by force. What seemed to offend the authorities so much about the pirates was not their tactics, but that somebody else was getting a cut of the action.

  • The Ghost of Nell Cropsey

    On the night of November 20, 1901, a young woman named Ella M. Cropsey, called “Nell” by her family and friends, disappeared from her home in Elizabeth City. Thirty-seven days later, her body was found floating in the Pasquotank River. Despite a man having been convicted of her murder, many questions about her death remain unanswered. And some say that her uneasy spirit still haunts her home in Elizabeth City.

    The Cropsey family had moved to Elizabeth City in 1898 from Brooklyn, New York. Young Nell Cropsey was a beautiful woman from a wealthy family, and in her new home she was soon attracting the attention of suitors.

    Nell began being courted by a local man named Jim Wilcox. At the time of her disappearance, Wilcox and Cropsey had been courting for nearly three years, and it’s said that Nell was growing impatient with Jim Wilcox’s hesitancy to propose marriage. Nell Cropsey began flirting with other men in public in an attempt to spurn Wilcox into proposing.

    But her plan seems to have gone awry. On the evening of November 20, 1901, Cropsey and Wilcox had an argument. The fight was loud, and everyone in the household could hear that the two lovers were yelling at one another, even if what they were saying couldn’t be understood. Some of Nell’s family who were in the house at the time did say that she and Wilcox had tentatively made up by the end of the evening, but no one ever learned where the lovers stood at the end of that night. When Nell Cropsey steeped outside the door with Wilcox around Eleven that night, it was the last time she was ever seen alive.

    Ollie Cropsey, Nell’s sister, heard something bang against the back of the house shortly after Jim Wilcox left. Going out to investigate, she found that the screen door had been broken. She saw no sign of who or what had broken the door. Ollie Cropsey went upstairs to see if Nell was already in bed, but found her sister’s room empty. Uneasy about her sister’s absence, she nevertheless returned to her own room and attempted to sleep.

    Shortly thereafter, a neighbor woke the entire house. The neighbor was yelling that someone was trying to steal the Cropsey’s pig.The entire family rushed downstairs, where they found the front door hanging wide open. And the entire family realized that Nell was not there. Jim Wilcox’s umbrella, a gift from Nell, was standing inside the door. No one had noticed it there earlier that night.

    When morning came and Nell Cropsey was still missing, the hunt began in earnest. The police were summoned and the entire town was searched high and low. But no trace of Nell was found.

    Suspicion for Nell’s disappearance immediately fell on Jim Wilcox, who maintained that he had no idea what had happened to her. This wasn’t good enough for the police. Wilcox was arrested on suspicion of kidnapping and held in the local jail.

    With Wilcox sitting in jail and Nell still missing,the family remained in limbo. This ended on the night of December 27th, more than a month after Nell’s disappearance.

    Nell Cropsey. Image from the North Carolina State Archives.
    Nell Cropsey. Image from the North Carolina State Archives.

    Mrs. Cropsey spotted something floating in the Pasquotank River near the family home. Sending some boatmen out to investigate, she crushingly realized that her long vigil was over. What she had seen floating in the river was her daughter’s body.

    In one of the most astounding occurrences in the case, a few days before Nell’s body was discovered the family had received a letter with a New York postmark containing what claimed to be a detailed account of the events of the night of Nell’s disappearance. The letter stated that Nell Cropsey had interrupted a vagrant attempting to steal the family pig. Upon being discovered, the man grabbed a heavy stick and knocked Nell unconscious. The unknown man carried Nell down to the river and stole a convenient boat. He rowed out into the river and dumped Nell Cropsey in the Pasquotank. The letter included a map which marked the spot where the body could be found. The spot marked on the map was very close to where Nell Cropsey’s body was eventually discovered. Who sent this letter and if the events it recounts were what truly happened that night remain unknown to this day.

    With the discovery of Cropsey’s body, the town went mad. A lynch mob descended on the jail, demanding Wilcox be released into their hands. Nell’s parents refused to join the mob, and pleaded with the crowd to let justice be served in the courts. Eventually, Governor Aycock sent in a small naval reserve group to disperse the crowd.

    The Pasquotank River where it flows by Elizabeth City.
    The Pasquotank River where it flows by Elizabeth City.

    Wilcox was tried twice for Cropsey’s murder. At the first trial he was found guilty, but this conviction was overturned when the NC Supreme Court declared a mistrial. A second trial convicted Wilcox on a charge of second degree murder and sentenced him to thirty years in prison. At neither trial did Wilcox take the stand in his own defense.

    Wilcox was pardoned by Governor Thomas Bickett in 1920. To the end of his life, Wilcox maintained his innocence.

    Shortly before his death in 1932, Wilcox spoke with W.O. Saunders, the editor of the Elizabeth City newspaper, and revealed everything he knew about the murder. Saunders walked away from the interview convinced Wilcox was innocent, and planned to publish the full details. Two weeks after that interview, Jim Wilcox committed suicide. Saunders died shortly thereafter in a car accident. Whatever Wilcox had told Saunders would now never be heard.

    For the past century, those who have lived in the Cropsey home have reported strange happenings. Lights have gone on and off by themselves, doors open and shut of their own accord, and strange gusts of cold air move through the house.

    The pale figure of a young woman has also been seen moving through the house. Many people passing by on the street outside have reported seeing the ghostly figure of a girl looking out of an upstairs window. Residents even say that the figure of Nell Cropsey has appeared in their bedrooms at night.

    Is the unfortunate victim of one of North Carolina’s most famous and sensational murder cases still wandering through her home in Elizabeth city? Will the true facts around Nell Cropsey’s murder ever be known? This enduring mystery has become part of the living history of Elizabeth City, and no visit to this quiet coastal town is complete without a walk by the Cropsey home.